Road Trip - April 2017, Part 7

After spending the night in Ridgecrest, my plan was to try to get to the trailhead for the hike to Telescope Peak. A bit ambitious, but I had a target. Heading out early on the 178 I was treated to a view of clouds trying to break past the distant Sierras in the west:

Then it was on past Searles Lake and Trona, where they mine borax. I was already feeling parched. I couldn't imagine how somebody 100+ years ago could grab a mule, arrive in the valley, look around, and say "Yep, I think I'll start my new life here." Still the raw beauty of it was starting to infect me in ways I hadn't predicted. Unfortunately the pictures don't do it justice, but:

A lush springtime view looking north on the Trona Wildrose Road.

Northeast to the Panamint Mountains with a salt lake at its base.

I took a detour at the ghost town of Ballarat, and treated my poor Corolla to a 12 mile ride on the Indian Ranch Road. I was starting to get the idea that maybe I should have rented a 4x4...not the first time that thought came to mind.

I believe this was the old postoffice in Ballarat.  The jail/morgue was on the other side of the street, and not quite as pristine. — I believe this was the old postoffice in Ballarat. The jail/morgue was on the other side of the street, and not quite as pristine.

She never complains, but she was starting to get suspicious about where we were going.

Hidden in small dips and valleys were surprisingly large bushes, clustered around salt pools. I couldn't help but taste the salt crystals, just to prove to myself that's what they were. Some kind of worm instantly attached itself to my finger, but dropped off and wriggled away before I could get a good look. But obviously there is a lot of life in this apparently desolate place.

I spent far too much time on that 12 mile road, getting out frequently to check out some new thing. I wasn't even in Death Valley yet, and I was like a kid in a candy store. It was putting my plans of Telescope Peak into disarray. Closer by was a trail into Surprise Canyon, which was tempting, but I finally decided I had to stick to my original plan. So I got back to the highway, hit the 190 east and crossed over another high range into Death Valley proper. You can see from the geography why it's so dry...it's three or four rain shadows in from the coast.

I figured I still had time to see Mosaic Canyon, so that was my first real hike.

This valley gushes with water in the winter, so established plants suck moisture from deep in the rock.

Each flower is filled with bugs sipping what they can.

I made a dumb mistake on this hike: I didn't bring water. I thought "it's only 4 miles, and it's still cool out". No. It gets hot in the confines of the valley, and about halfway in I started to realize I was overheating and drying out. By the time I got back to the car it was hot with a dry wind, and I could have used the water in my car to make tea. So glad I learned this before committing to something bigger. But then it was on to Telescope Peak.

I have to recommend the drive from Emigrant Campground (just south of Stovepipe Wells) to the Charcoal Kilns. Beautiful rolling hills, snowy tipped mountains in the distance, and the flowers were everywhere. As I said at the beginning of this series, I only had a telephoto lens and my iPhone 6, but here's what I managed:

But my target was still ahead:

Looking forward to snow, after my Mosiac Canyon meltdown.

After a winding drive, the paved road ended and I was back on rough terrain. My poor car! I chickened out once and turned around, but...

The car is happy I turned around, but I'm despondent, the Canadian in me wanted to touch snow!

But then I couldn't take it, I turned around again, took it slow and careful so as not to bottom out, and as we gained altitude the pine trees started to emerge. I made it as far as the Charcoal Kilns, but I could see that a 4x4 was a requirement for carrying on.

These were in service for only three years back in early 1900s, they still smell like charcoal.

Before there were 4x4s there were 2x2s, aka "legs". I decided to hike at least to Mahogany Flats campground from the Kilns. Hard to tell how far it as, it's at least a couple miles and a good 1000+ft elevation change. I'm the first to admit, I'm not in the best shape, but I loaded up my pack with water...lots of water...and set out. At one point, between the heat and the elevation change, I was sure I wasn't going to get there, but then lo and behold, under a bush hidden from the sun was a patch of snow! I grabbed a handful and laid it between my pack and my neck, and it sat there melting for a good ten minutes. So I got to the trailhead:

It was very late afternoon by then, and I had to get back to Ridgecrest that night. So sadly I couldn't do the hike, but now I can plan better for the next trip. On the way out the wildlife started to emerge, including coyotes, and other "wildlife" like feral donkeys: